When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors. From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route.
The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches. After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above. A second pitch continues on, although I am not sure of the quality (it looks good to me).
Sandbag alert! Sandbag alert! This is rattly fists through the roof... burly as hell unless you have big mits. When I was there several years ago, the plague at the base called it 5.11. I think the Marco I.C. guide has a grade disparity between the topo and description rating.
whatever the grade of this "really" is, if you do this climb it goes from 2" crack, to 3" crack, to 3.5" crack", to 4" crack and then 4" crack out the roof. if 4" cracks are rattly fists for you, 5.10+ might be a sandbag.
for me it was rattly cups through a roof. fun, yet the 10 (as with most routes at the creek are) is realitive to your hand size, if the jams were more secure for me it would have for sure gone 10.
4X4
RSS Feed
