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Broken Tooth
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Unbelievable 
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unnamed 5.10/11 (?) 
Unnamed short 11- 

Heat Searcher 

5.11+

   

FA: Petro & Royster
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 190 feet
Views: 232 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 3, 2007


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Description 

Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs. It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period. In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.

Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.

P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poor rock, the pitch climbs extremely well. 5.10+, 120'.

P2: Launch up a short bomb bay slot and then pull up onto the extremely steep thin hands crack. 5.11+, 70'.


Protection 

P1: Bring the stuff you need for pitch two plus a selection of TCU's.

P2: Camalots, in order of placement:

1x #3.5
1x #2
4x #1's
2x 0.75's
1x #2 (for the pod)
2x 0.5's
Draws for the anchor.

Two ropes to rap.