The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A good route with character. THis left-facing flake is the obvious route left of Tofu Crack. Climb a crack to access a huge left-facing flake that is pinched, clinged, or lie-backed to the top. While following the route was easy enough, I'd imagine that leading it was harder, as some of the most natural stances are not so great for placing gear.
Location
This the second route left of Tofu Crack in the lighter wall, between Even Ecstacy and Mouse Meat. It is the most obvious, climbing a long thin left-facing flake.
This route is "smell the meat" posted previously by Jay Brown
I led this thing. Kind of spooky since while laying this crack back/ weird heel hooks it is pretty apparent how detached this flake is. I used hands sized gear at the bottom and the wide gear is everything up to an old 5 camelot. The top section requires some hands sized gear as well.
I highly recommend long slings for the cams. I pushed the cams pretty far back in the crack and since the crack angles long slings will alleviate rope drag. There were some very good rest stances to place gear in between the layback moves.
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