I'm giving it a star for two reasons: 1) Because if someone gave it a good brush down it might get one, and that would be easy enough to do while lowering from the shared anchor with Two Timer (10+) which is a good climb. 2) Because someone with razor-thin toes and fat fingers might like it better. But neither of those applied to me.
Bloom suggests that TR'ing this finger crack is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding "fun" once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ to me and not high quality. "Ninja Bedwetter" and "Extra Lean" have much nicer rock!
Location
This is the awkward problem that leads to a strenuous finger crack to finish at the anchors of "Two Timer," just left of the corner. TR it after leading Two Timer.
Protection
Bloom refers to this as a TR and I can see why. The rock is fairly soft to feel good about small cams in it, the stances insecure due to bad, bad feet, and the climb i credibly pumpy and sustained. Perhaps one of these freak-of-nature strong climbers with the right sized fingers could lead it with a few of everything to 3" for the bottom and doubles .75-1.5" for the top half, but not me.
2nd Meat Wall
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