A very good line, but not a great warm-up as it is a little pumpy for the grade. The crack does have some variety, but no less gets pretty pumpy and is considerably harder than the nearby climbs Even Ecstacy (9+), Mouse Meat (10+), or Tofu Crack (10-), which make better warm-ups.
Bloom suggests that TR'ing the finger crack left of this from the same anchor (Two Timer II, a 5.12-) is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding fun once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ and not high quality. Fat fingered people might like it better.
Location
This climb is on the left side of the 2nd Meat Wall, just turned around a corner from the main face, left of Tofu Crack, which is left of Top Sirloin. It is the crack system in a HUGE, shaded, left-facing corner.
I am not sure I would go heavy on the 2 2.5. You are going to need more 3" then 2" stuff. Also at lease one if 2 BD #5 comes in handy on the ow flake. The #4 tips out. This is what I would take if I do it again. 2 .75 BD, 3 #2 BD, 4 #3 BD, 1 #4 WC and 2 #5 BD. And I believe it take all of a 60m rope. 70 would be better.
2nd Meat Wall
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