The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The mega classic corner looming overhead when you get to the top of the trail. Desert Shield is probably one of the best .12s in the Creek. The climbing up to the bolt is casual, and then it's on. Stemming seemed to be the key, both at the bolt and through the upper corner.
Protection
4x .5"; 6x .75"; 3x 1"; 1 each green, red, gold Camalot; couple slings and few QDs.
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO Nov 28, 2009 rating: 5.12
Stellar route, hard to resist as it looms over the approach trail.
Here's my blow-by-blow: The lower crux (at the bolt) was hard to read, but easy once you figure it out. Butt friction was key. Some cool, airy face climbing in the middle leads to a no hands rest while you contemplate the overhanging corner above. The first thirty feet or so of the corner are definitely the enduro crux, as the corner pinches briefly to tips (~green aliens). Higher, footholds and pods make it pretty managable.
The rack suggested seems just right, although I didn't place the Green or Red Camalot (the Yellow Camalot is handy for the very top). For sure two ropes to get down, it's a long one.
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