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Desert Shield 

5.12c

   

FA: Steve Carruthers
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 130 feet
Views: 1,117 page views

Submitted By: Max on Mar 16, 2007


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Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

The impressive corner of "Desert Sheild"


Description 

The mega classic corner looming overhead when you get to the top of the trail. Desert Shield is probably one of the best .12s in the Creek. The climbing up to the bolt is casual, and then it's on. Stemming seemed to be the key, both at the bolt and through the upper corner.


Protection 

4x .5"; 6x .75"; 3x 1"; 1 each green, red, gold Camalot; couple slings and few QDs.



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By Scott Bennett
From: Superior, CO
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.12

Stellar route, hard to resist as it looms over the approach trail.

Here's my blow-by-blow: The lower crux (at the bolt) was hard to read, but easy once you figure it out. Butt friction was key.
Some cool, airy face climbing in the middle leads to a no hands rest while you contemplate the overhanging corner above.
The first thirty feet or so of the corner are definitely the enduro crux, as the corner pinches briefly to tips (~green aliens). Higher, footholds and pods make it pretty managable.

The rack suggested seems just right, although I didn't place the Green or Red Camalot (the Yellow Camalot is handy for the very top). For sure two ropes to get down, it's a long one.

Enjoy!

-Scott