The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Where Life and Rite to Life used to be. November 2...
Description
Hand to fist crack, a little crumbly.
Location
On the yellow and white horizontally striped wall to the right of Bellyfull 200yds. The two routes in the same alcove still have shit anchors.
If you read your guidebook for "Life" you will get to this route. Life is no longer there, it fell down. What remains is a surprisingly good hand to fist crack.
Protection
In Oct 06' I pulled the anchor (4"x1/2" rawl, hanger stamped "Comp Wall") out by hand. The new FA (I'm assuming "life had different anchors that fell off with it, these new bad anchors were placed on the freshly exposed rock) had drilled very poorly on softer than average rock. Since that time people have been rapping off my cam and leaving a note that you'll die if you climb this. I put in a 2 bolt anchor with a little glue in March 07. Because of the softness, I don't know how long the anchor will hold up. The route takes hand to fist size cams.
RSS Feed
