Critic's Choice

Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>> Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page. The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Critic's Choice Wall. Belly Full of Bad Berries ta...

Description 

There are a few hard testpieces here, as well as some easier stuff. This cliff does not have quite the concentration of routes that other Creek crags do, and there seems to be quite a bit of loose and fresh rockfall here, but it is still worth a visit. Morning sun, afternoon shade in the summer.

Getting There 

This is the second large canyon/valley on the right as you drive up toward Beef Basin from Bridger Jack area. Right after a cattle guard (and before you hit the turnoff to Way Rambo/Pistol Whipped area), take the high clearance track to the right. Parking is at the end of this road.

The Classics

Featured Route For Critic's Choice

Critic's Choice 5.12  UT : Moab Area : ... : Critic's Choice

This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter. Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors. Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT