Mike Morley heads back down from Dental Floss Tyco...
Description
I wish the MP had a rating between good and great: a 2.5 star.
The softest 11 in Bloom's book?
A long, fun right-facing corner with rests. The first half follows a single crack of hands and wide hands. The second half has double cracks, wide on the left, thin on the right. No hard moves, but gear/lead management is an issue. There is a decent stance at the anchors, so if the leader doesn't feel like hauling a 2nd rope up there, he/she can comfortably belay on high.
At about 2/3's height take a look to your left and check out the massive eye bolt on the next climb over (not in Bloom). Was a jackhammer used to drill that hole?
Location
Starts in the alcove on the left side of the huge pillar where the trail comes up.
Protection
Camalots: several #2 & #3s, 1 or 2 #4s, a few in the .4 to #1 range, draws and runners. Zircon-encrusted tweezers.
This is a long (maybe more like 165' than 150'), fun route. My partner and I agreed that 5.10b is a more appropriate rating.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.10
Soft for sure. No reason to call it 11-, but in no way am I bad-mouthing the climb. Just as you get tired of one sort of move, you start on another. Many stars for length, continuity, rock quality, and variety with good gear.
Rack should include more #3 camalots and less #3 friends. A new-style #4 camalot was adequate and the old heavy clunker was not needed. Furthermore, take an extra 1" and .75" for the top then you need less big gear, as you protect with small stuff on the right side instead. 170' long by our estimation.
Broken Tooth
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