BETA PHOTO: Here is a look at Fingures in a Lightsocket.
Description
This short, right leaning lieback is the climb immediatly right of Coyne Crack. It starts out fingers and gets progressively smaller as you get higher. The tactic is definitely climb fast, the rests really suck. About 1/3 height is a foothold to place gear off, but doesn't really give you a good rest. Continue climbing above and place yellow aliens from strenuous liebacks before the crack pinches down to tips. You could fit in a blue alien up high, but its really strenuous to place. Just before the crux, the final moves trying to stand up to the anchor, is a really poor, wrongly sloping foothold to maybe rest or place pro on, but it feels super tenuous. The crux move involves using spaced out fingerlocks and a sloping ledge to mantel on. After just reading what I wrote, I would say its not quite as hairy as I made it sound, just remember to keep your feet really high in opposition and move fast.
Protection
One .75 camalot in a pod down low, two .5 camalots, one or two yellow aliens, and then possibly one green alien, and one blue alien, if you can stop and place them.
I've seen two dudes pull gear on this route. Due to its increasingly strenuous and desperate nature as one proceeds upwards, the last couple of placements that protect the crux moves are often not the best. My friend pulled two yellow Metolius TCUs after he messed up the final mantle, as did another guy (can't remember his name... he was Canadian though), who completely inverted his cam. Neither of them decked, but still be careful on this route.
I agree that one should be careful, but I fell about 4 times in the last 15 feet of this route, including onto a shallow purple TCU and all my gear held, FWIW... I suck at liebacks and this thing is burly to protect for sure.
Here is a little beta on the pro. I have whipper tested this setup on several occasions with a fall from the mantel and I have never had a problem. Save two green aliens for the top of the climb. When you are at the chopped bolt(about ten feet from the top), place both aliens about a foot apart. Next, head for the top. You will be looking at a fairly large fall, but if you don't mind runouts then this is a good way to go. Also, if you do this then you don't have to try to stop and place pro in the final pumpy section.
I'd agree with the last comment about placing two aliens and then gunning for it. I wouldn't call it runout, though. You're only about five feet(at most) above your last piece. The first time I got on this route I whipped at the crux; the piece held just fine. Pieces pulling are more often then not pilot error.
If you stay relaxed there is a stem rest right before the final crux. You can easily place a couple of small cams (I think they were #2 metolius size) and get a good shake before doing the last couple of moves.
I was going for it durring a blizzard in 05. I'll never foget it. No one was there, it was awesome but cold. I placed a .4 BD at the good foot on the left, about 20' up, and then ran it out. I got to where you move out to the face hold out right a good 15' past my last piece. I mean i was feeling good. Just as I reached out right my foot poped sending me flying face down looking at my belayer who had one hand on the rope and one hand in the air to catch me. I could not believe I was still falling. I thought forsure I should have stopped. I slammed the wall getting the worst blue balls and flipped upside down. I streched out my hand and was almost able to tuch the ground. I tryed to get back on but got half way up and my legs would not calm down. that was a ride I'll NAVER forget.
The top two moves before getting established are really hard for us with fat fingers. Fell here on my only attempt and could barely make it to the anchors after resting.
Supercrack Buttress
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