The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: A hi-res picture of the Hummingbird Spire section ...
Description
This route climbs the gorgeous corner to the right of Hoop Dancer and to the left of Vision Quest. It tops out at the notch between Hummingbird Spire and the King of Pain and provides a good alternative for accessing the second pitches of Hoop Dancer or Sacred Space.
Pitch 1- This is the business. Climb the off-fingers crack up the left-facing corner to a bolted belay stance on the right. There are very few rests! (5.12)
Pitch 2- Continue up the left-facing corner with hands and a few wide moves. A short, loose section gains the notch. (5.10)
Note: This route can be climbed in one long pitch.
Protection
A standard desert rack of cams up to 3.5” with many extras in the .5 to #1 Camalot range. 10 cams in that range would not be out of line.
This could be the cleanest pitch at the Bridger Jack area. For that reason I give it 4-stars. Linking this to the final overhanging handcrack pitch of Hoop Dancer makes for an amazing climb.
Pretty sure that Matt Lizzenbee (sp?) put this one up, but not to the notch. The real bad-ass link would be into Sacred Space. You'd need a hell of a rack!