The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is from vague memory, so take it as a loose description :)
P1: Chimney to a stance with two bolt anchor. 5.8
P2: Laybacking through a short wide section to a long, low-angle 2" crack. Skirt right on incipient cracks and face to avoid some munge. Two bolt anchor. 5.11
P3: Traverse left into a dirty but perfect hand crack. Finish out a roof with a bolt. Gear belay on a ledge to the left of a bolted anchor (rap anchor) because it is more comfy and convenient. 5.11
3rd class and hiking to the top. We belayed the first bit on the way up and down because it is that creepy ball-bearing mossback shit like on the approach to Castleton. It feels like it could zip you right over the edge!
Three double roped raps get you down. Two of the anchors have webbing (something I regret) so you may want to bring some replacement webbing (or better yet, chains!)
As far as tower routes go, this one is pretty good. Maybe a small notch below Rimshot on Bridger Jack in quality. But keep in mind, it has only been done once and IS a tower route, so be ready for a little junk. The setting is pristine, however.
Location
This route is on the north face (facing Davis Canyon) just right of the center of the wall. There are two larger corners that face opposite directions and form sort of a wide buttress at the tallest part of the wall--pretty clearly visible from the road. The route is just right of the right corner. Look for the first anchor about 80 feet up. I can't remember if we made a plaque, but I don't think so. Just approach from the Davis Canyon road, whichever way looks expedient. There is actually a USGS marker at the base of the wall. Those boys got around!
Protection
Pretty standard tower rack to #4 Camalot, plus we used an old #5 Camalot.
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