The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is an awesome changing corner to splitter; in the same aesthetic league as Broken Brain or The Optimator. The plaque at the base gives it a 13a, which it would be if you have really big hands. For us average hands folk, I believe it is around 12c for endurance. Even more so than most Indian Creek routes, there are really no hard moves on this route.
(more detailed beta) The route pretty much goes like this: big fingers in shallow stem-box, then perfect hands in a left-facing corner through a small roof, then a jug rest below a very strenuous tight hands changing corners roof. This may be the technical crux of the route. This puts you below an awesome headwall and its slightly offset, forty-foot ringlocks splitter (wide green camalots, maybe tight 2 friends at places). This is the endurance crux. If you have small hands, this may be a thin hands section, but either way, it is still very enduro. Gun it for the salvation hand jam, and the anchors 15 feet above that. WOO!
Location
maybe 100 yards to the left, and around a prow from the Fatted Calf/SC Memorial area.
Protection
FRIENDS SIZES -- (2) #1, (6) #1.5, (7) #2, (3) #3. Green camalots seemed to work the best in the headwall, and were almost a bit tipped out. So 1.5 friends may be too small, but 2 friends were definitely a little big.
Having a couple Omega Linkcams solves the problem of finding the right cam size to fit in the headwall fingerstacking splitter. If you have them, save them for the top.
RSS Feed
