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Sparks Wall
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Go Sparky Go 

5.11+

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: gets morning to afternoon
Views: 501 page views

Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2006


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Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

Joseffa Meir enters the powerful crux of "Go Spark...


Description 

If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and then culminating in cool moves on a nearly horizontal, offset, finger-crack. The last moves I will leave as a surprise.

This is a power route. It would be a classic if it were not for the brief interruption of good rock in the middle with the wide spot and bad flake. If cleaned, it might deserve "classic" status.


Location 

Keep an eye to the right as you approach the cliff, looking for a splitter to offset to a right-ward hooking, offset finger-crack to a set of anchors. This crack splits the outside face of a huge left-facing dihedral.


Protection 

2 of each, .75"-3"



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By camhead
From: Columbus, OH
Jan 4, 2008

I liked this route, even though it only has about ten feet of real climbing on it.