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Broken Tooth
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Rock Lobster 
Unbelievable 
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unnamed 5.10/11 (?) 
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Rhythm Method 

5.12

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 55 feet
Views: 273 page views

Submitted By: m-earle on Nov 13, 2006


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almost to the anchors


Description 

This short and fun tips splitter is on the right hand side of the main face that rock lobster is on. It begins with some technical moves using the two cracks at the start, and then follows the splitter to a two blt anchor. This climb is unusual in the fact that it has foot-holds to work with. Be carfull of loose rock around the anchor


Protection 

green aliens



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A jug on a 5.12?

A jug on a 5.12?

The crux start

The crux start


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By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007
rating: 5.11+

I seconded Paco on this route and found it no harder than mid 5.11 with a "cordón umbilical". However: I went back to lead it a few weeks later and took a soft ground fall after having ripped three pieces of shit gear. After that my lead head was shot and I placed a piece of pro every 2 feet, at least, in the soft uninspiring rock. The grade made a bit more sense when pumped from putting in pro everywhere.

Don't use the thin profiled aliens on this route.