The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Out of the rattly fingers, into the stacks, totall...
Description
Wild Cat is a great finger-stacking testpiece on the west end of the Cat Wall (closer to Nine Lives than Johnny Cat). Climb through a reachy start and clip a bolt that protects a face climbing move up to a pillar. Rest here and then bust it up the not-quite-straight-in off-fingers crack to a final crux: trying to clip the anchors.
I thought the first 15' feet of rattly fingers off the pillar were way effin hard . once the crack went splitter, i felt it eased up. Felt a bit harder than Slice'n Dice
Yeah, I have a video of Mike Brumbaugh sending the pillar last year! The next-block down could go, too. There are definitely .12- routes that are easier than this thing. It is a little heady to place gear and pull rope above the pillar/ledge, as well! Tremendous position, though.
By WiledHorse From: NoGo Oct 5, 2009 rating: 5.12-
opening moves are fun and sporty. decent 0.4 camalot in a horizontal before the roof.
i found good finger locks for the first 10 feet off the ledge, then the business starts. yikes. i got spanked. painfully insecure stacked fingers and crappy feet get you to a jug/lieback then eventually good hand jam rest. i found a 1.5 friend protects the crux nicely. the last part is kind of an enduro test, insecure jams, but at least you have good feet.
yeah, only one hand can really crank due to the skewed angle of the crack. the other hand is doing that obtuse finger stacking crap, which is pretty desperate, especially considering the size. i couldn't get my fingers onto my thumb to stack at all, just pure finger twisting. kind of spooky right above a ledge too.
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