The plaque at the base of this thing is hard to read but it says "Low (unreadable) 5.10 4/06"
Start about 50ft. left of Samurai Loving in a slightly offset splitter offwidth. It's pretty consistent with a slightly wider spot at mid height. Rap from chain anchors.
Protection
one #4.5 for the start, then #5 camalots and #6 friends for the rest of the way.
This is a beautiful wide crack. Thanks to whoever put the anchors in. My partner and I saw this thing last winter and wanted to put it up. This past weekend we were happily disappointed that someone put some anchors in.
I agree with the gear 4.5 down low, ever widening. I led this with 1 4.5, 1- 5 Camalot, 1- #6 Friend. I basically walked the pieces up in that succession.
This one is pretty good if you like OW. Tape the left knee, elbow, and shoulder... Big Bros are not so secure owing to the slight flare; use large cams instead. New style #5 and #6 are a good idea. The top gets slightly narrower than the middle again & the new style #5 Camalot is good.
I thought I put the fa last April2006. I put the bolts, but then it turned out that someone else had climbed before. A guy called Alex, from the monsteroffwidth.com. Sure it is a fun route!
2nd Meat Wall
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