The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The plaque at the base of this thing is hard to read but it says "Low (unreadable) 5.10 4/06"
Start about 50ft. left of Samurai Loving in a slightly offset splitter offwidth. It's pretty consistent with a slightly wider spot at mid height. Rap from chain anchors.
Protection
one #4.5 for the start, then #5 camalots and #6 friends for the rest of the way.
This is a beautiful wide crack. Thanks to whoever put the anchors in. My partner and I saw this thing last winter and wanted to put it up. This past weekend we were happily disappointed that someone put some anchors in.
I agree with the gear 4.5 down low, ever widening. I led this with 1 4.5, 1- 5 Camalot, 1- #6 Friend. I basically walked the pieces up in that succession.
This one is pretty good if you like OW. Tape the left knee, elbow, and shoulder... Big Bros are not so secure owing to the slight flare; use large cams instead. New style #5 and #6 are a good idea. The top gets slightly narrower than the middle again & the new style #5 Camalot is good.
I thought I put the fa last April2006. I put the bolts, but then it turned out that someone else had climbed before. A guy called Alex, from the monsteroffwidth.com. Sure it is a fun route!
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