The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Starts in a left facing corner and gets wider as you climb higher. Big-fingers, to tight-hands, to hands, to a pod. then climb the anchors on the wall above the pod. Pretty fun, however, short climb.
Location
The right end of the buttress. This is the first climb to the right of Battle of the Bulge.
Protection
Green to Blue Camalots. Short climb, so not much gear is necessary.
While the grade is listed as 5.10+ in the Bloom guidebook, I felt it was much eisier. More like 5.10- or 5.9
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.10+
I've got big hands, and the beginning of this route felt solid 10+ to me... Couldn't get a decent hand jam, so just laid it back and tried not to pump out while blindly placing red camalots.