Right when you get to the top of the approach trail, this is the offwidth that splits up the prominent leaning pillar in the center of the wall. Starts with a bouldery move to gain a hand to wide-hand crack. Then a rightward leaning offwidth crack to a roof. Pull through the roof and more offwidth climbing leads to a two bolt anchor. Really fun and physical route.
Protection
A #3 Camalot or two go in at the beginning. Then #4 Camalots to the roof. The roof takes #4.5 or newer #5 Camalot. Then a hidden smaller crack takes #.75 Camalots and back to #4.5 or newer #5 Camalots near the top.
Tommie and I put that route up. I Intended to continue to the top but a chopper flake sits up there, and I never went back to it. It is definitely a sandbag. Quinlan and Jim Olsen did the second ascent and asked what I rated it. Under the influence of a superbowl tequila bash I said 10+,..It ain't. Where the name "pussy wuss" came from I have no clue. For me it was "the Incisor". up front and gnashing.
Broken Tooth
RSS Feed
