The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The majority of this route is handcrack. There are a couple of wider pods and one section of tight-hands. Higher up there is a smaller crack out to the left that can be used. Good route, lots of fun.
Location
Starts on the left side of the buttress. Route begins on the face to the right of Elbow Vices, down near Think Pink.
Protection
Green to Gold Camalots should do it. A #3 Camalot could be nice to protect a wide pod higher up.
Agreed. This is mostly hands, but the pods make this climb a challenge. The escaping the final pod involves some tenuous face moves off to the left before pulling back right.
Called 10+ in the book, climbs more like 10-. Great route and good for warmup too. Mostly #2s with pods and good options for feet if you don't want to jam it straight up the whole way.
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