The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Desire is an offset OW that lends itself to your left side in. You can get a couple of good rests out right of the crack with your feet. Near the top you enter a large cavity and chimney up to where the anchors are located. There is a loose looking hold I "didn't grab" to pull onto the slab to clip the chains.
Location
Desire is located a short distance to the right of "Layaway Plan" and to the left of "Slice and Dice". You can see the anchors up on the slab to the right of the crack.
Protection
3=#5 friends, 3=#6 friends; There are two biners on the anchor to clip
This is a great route to practice hand/fist stacking technique.
Once you get up about 15' the crack becomes wide enough to get your knee in. The first 10' are really the crux #4 (purple) Camalot. After that it is #4.5 (red) Camalot or #5 C4. Cruiser! Two are enough if you walk them, three would be perfect and four would probably be overkill. Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the final chimney moves to the anchor.
Really nice training offwidth. The knee is good jamming nearly all the time, hand-fist stack and arm bar work both. Difficult is only the steeper lower part, when this ends it becomes easy. One #5 was enough for me, more gear just gets in the way.
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