The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is an excellent route located 30 feet to the right of Spaghetti Western that climbs the shallow but obvious right-facing corner and breaks from fingers to hands within the first 30 feet.
Start by climbing up the broken band off the ground and placing gear from the ledge, a yellow TCU and red alien should do! Work through the fingers and off fingers section and either jam or layback the green camalot section for 15 feet. The climbing remains physical to the top.
Protection
Double up on the 1.5 & 2 friends or bring two green camalots for the crux. You will also need a red alien for the start of the fingers section and hand size gear, 3-3.5 for the top.
While pulling onto the ledge at the anchors, my buddy's foot slipped, sending him on a 35-40 foot shit-yur-pants whipper ending over halfway down the route. Moral of the story? Don't run it out while trying on brand-new shoes.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Apr 11, 2007
I thought the crux on this route quite burly. I remember doing it after Coyne Crack Simulator and thinking it was twice as hard. Aaah, the Creek... I propose a new grading system: "hard", "very hard", and "sadist". That should pacify the grade-chaser in all of us.
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