This is an excellent route located 30 feet to the right of Spaghetti Western that climbs the shallow but obvious right-facing corner and breaks from fingers to hands within the first 30 feet.
Start by climbing up the broken band off the ground and placing gear from the ledge, a yellow TCU and red alien should do! Work through the fingers and off fingers section and either jam or layback the green camalot section for 15 feet. The climbing remains physical to the top.
Protection
Double up on the 1.5 & 2 friends or bring two green camalots for the crux. You will also need a red alien for the start of the fingers section and hand size gear, 3-3.5 for the top.
While pulling onto the ledge at the anchors, my buddy's foot slipped, sending him on a 35-40 foot shit-yur-pants whipper ending over halfway down the route. Moral of the story? Don't run it out while trying on brand-new shoes.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Apr 11, 2007
I thought the crux on this route quite burly. I remember doing it after Coyne Crack Simulator and thinking it was twice as hard. Aaah, the Creek... I propose a new grading system: "hard", "very hard", and "sadist". That should pacify the grade-chaser in all of us.
Pistol Whipped
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