The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This route is about 20ft. left of "Trip to the Vet" and is the thin, right facing tips corner. Somewhat slabby with a few edges for feet make this route feel a bit more secure. The gear is good, but a little spaced in places. There is a gear anchor with webbing about 60ft. up.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Nov 20, 2006 rating: 5.12
The bottom 2/3 of this route are total fun and not hard at all (5.9-) but then comes the crux. A few small nuts would be well-placed at the bottom of each of the chalked-up "tips" crimps in the corner. Yeah, tips, whatever... more like a #3-#4 BD stopper. The tiny, red micro-camalot is the perfect gear for aiding the crux move. It appeared to me that stemming is key on this route, but I am not sure because I got totally rejected. But I flashed a few 11+ routes last trip. In fact, this is the only Indian Creek "5.11+" that I have ever been unable to do the moves on. Can we give it 5.12-? Wait a minute... I've never been on a I.C. 5.12- that I couldn't do the moves on either!
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