The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Wild Flower represents both the first ascent of the Bridger Jack Butte and its easiest route. Besides this, it's the rap line. The route follows flakes and corners for 2 pitches to the notch between the King of Pain and the main butte, and then takes the left of two obvious wide cracks to the top of the Wingate. The first two pitches provide enjoyable sections of climbing between ledges. The third provides excellent opportunities for character building.
Pitch 1: Begins just left of the high point of the dirt/talus in a L-facing ramp with a 4" crack-flake on it. A bolt (not original) is evident perhaps 30' up. Follow the line of least resistance to fixed anchors at 100'.
Pitch 2: Fun movement out from under a boulder, past another non-FA bolt, to more enjoyable (and more sustained) corners and flakes. Note the rope grooves at the top of the pitch. They look like they could just grab right on to a knotted rope, don't they? A 5" piece comes in handy. 120', maybe.
Pitch 3: Yes, that. Easy chimney to a squeezer, 50'. The trauma has been reduced with the addition of a couple bolts at the 1/3 and 2/3 marks, but you'll still want a 5 camalot before the first and after the second. This, 2 draws, and a #5 Friend should do it; the rest just gets in the way. If you backclean the big one after the first bolt you won't need the 2 that Bloom's guide calls for.
Location
Ascends directly to the K.O.P./BJ notch.
Descent: single-rope from summit to 2. DO NOT use the old belay/rap anchors at the base of the chimney unless you want to repeat the classic stuck-rope prussik maneuver enjoyed by many; rather, look for a newer set of chains about 10 feet lower and closer to the King of Pain. This will enable you to reach the ground in one 60-meter rap; reportedly a 70m rope will barely work in two raps (see Powders commentary).
Protection
2 each from TCU's to 3.5", a 5 Friend, and an old 5/new 6 Camalot. Long runners. Headlamp & prussiks if disregarding rap beta.
By Chris Perkins From: Avon, Colorado Apr 22, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Felt the 2nd pitch was solid 5.10. Great pitch. No one was willing to do the third pitch. We need some character building for sure. Never had the need for a #5 on 2nd pitch, but would on 3rd. (next time)
WIthout question the third pitch of this thing is harder than Vision Quest. Ten-a is a complete sandbag.
By JoergB From: Germany Oct 14, 2009 rating: 5.10a
I would consider the 3rd pitch significantly the easiest of all pitches. To the first bolt it is easy stemming, past this and the second there are enough ledges and holds to consider this sport climbing or at worst a fun offwidth. Only the exit chimney was a bit burly as I did not fit in and had to climb this as ow, and therefore I would rate a 5.9. Kristina, who fit in, would not accept any rating higher than 5.8. A #6 camalot was useful to homogenize the pro after the 2nd bolt; I had no use for the #5.
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