Wild Flower 

FA:  Ed Webster + partner c.1983 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  3 pitches, 275 feet, Grade II Views: 760 page views Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Apr 13, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Cooper Malozzi relishing the graceful flow of P.3

Description 

Wild Flower represents both the first ascent of the Bridger Jack Butte and its easiest route. Besides this, it's the rap line. The route follows flakes and corners for 2 pitches to the notch between the King of Pain and the main butte, and then takes the left of two obvious wide cracks to the top of the Wingate. The first two pitches provide enjoyable sections of climbing between ledges. The third provides excellent opportunities for character building.

Pitch 1: Begins just left of the high point of the dirt/talus in a L-facing ramp with a 4" crack-flake on it. A bolt (not original) is evident perhaps 30' up. Follow the line of least resistance to fixed anchors at 100'.

Pitch 2: Fun movement out from under a boulder, past another non-FA bolt, to more enjoyable (and more sustained) corners and flakes. Note the rope grooves at the top of the pitch. They look like they could just grab right on to a knotted rope, don't they? A 5" piece comes in handy. 120', maybe.

Pitch 3: Yes, that. Easy chimney to a squeezer, 50'. The trauma has been reduced with the addition of a couple bolts at the 1/3 and 2/3 marks, but you'll still want a 5 camalot before the first and after the second. This, 2 draws, and a #5 Friend should do it; the rest just gets in the way. If you backclean the big one after the first bolt you won't need the 2 that Bloom's guide calls for.

Location 

Ascends directly to the K.O.P./BJ notch.

Descent: single-rope from summit to 2. DO NOT use the old belay/rap anchors at the base of the chimney unless you want to repeat the classic stuck-rope prussik maneuver enjoyed by many; rather, look for a newer set of chains about 10 feet lower and closer to the King of Pain. This will enable you to reach the ground in one 60-meter rap; reportedly a 70m rope will barely work in two raps (see Powders commentary).

Protection 

2 each from TCU's to 3.5", a 5 Friend, and a 5 Camalot. Long runners. Headlamp & prussiks if disregarding rap beta.