The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: I-Forget-Who follows the unknown crack with a roof...
Description
This route is not described in the Bloom book. But then again, I can't find the 3 mystery climbs that are, so maybe he just has this one wrong? Climb up the corner with the hands-to-fist crack, and the hand-to-fist crack just right of it (#3-3.5 camalot) Reach the roof, protect it (1-1.5" gear) and pull in over it (crux, 5.10) and climb the corner system above to a solid anchor. The anchor is now an equalized #10 hex (textbook placement I just set in) and a drilled pin on the face. A perfectly good carabiner is up top and should be switched for a rapid link by someone (I was out again).
Location
This route is at the very left end of the 'good rock' at Blue Gramma and just before turning the corner to the NW face. It climbs a wide hands and fist crack up just inches right or a right facing corner and then up and right through a roof to an anchor well above. Approach via the trail at the base of the rock, perhaps 150 meters left of Dawn of an Age and 100 meters left of a distinct 15-meter-tall free standing pillar. This might be more quickly approached by walking up the road from the parking to the low point in the cliff and then going up to said low point, where this route lies.
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