The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This climb is a left-facing flake several meters left of the classic climb Blue Gramma. It climbs up and right to reach that same anchor. Mentally, climbing up and over right to the fixed pin is taxing. Soft rock 5.10- on so-so spaced gear. CLip the pin and power up on slightly dusty rock (don't slip) to reach good cupped hands and a few fists in the long crack above.
Location
This is the flake and crack system left of Blue Gramma, climbing to the same anchor. Refer to the route description on that page.
Protection
A few cams from .75" to 1.5" to start, a quickdraw for a fixed pin at the crux and perhaps a large cam to back it up (#4 camalot") and handful of 2.5-3.5" (heavy on the BD #2 and #3 camalots) for the top half, where the climbing is not hard, but you are pumped. A TR is possible from Blue Gramma with a 3" cam for a directional somewhere left of the top- otherwise a fall at the crux might be exciting.
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