The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This pitch would be a must do almost anywhere else although it does not justify its name.
The crux is at the start, reaching past a blank section with the only pro a small nut at your shins. Note that at a height of around 5' 5" this move would become much harder. Above this work the double cracks (wide hands on R, wide fingers on L) with a couple of stances encountering a hard move where the cracks converge.
The pitch can be done with just the right crack at about 10+.
Location
A little bit to the left of Hot Fun Sunday, this climb is close to the left edge of the cliff as viewed from the parking area that serves Fin and Broken Tooth.
Protection
#2 Rock, 2 ea .5 - 3 Camalot, long sling, 2 quick draws.
The start is reachy and a little bold. If you are shorter than 5.7 you might have a real hard time making the reach. You can place a good .75 camalot and red C3 to protect the start but it is still interesting.
Above you can take the wide crack (L) or the fingers on the R. I recommend placing red / gray alien at the end of the fingers on the right instead of a wide peice back in the serrated OW. Fingers on the R are cool and a little harder.
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