The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This long corner gives you plenty of time to savor. The climb doesn't have many tough sections but it doesn't really let up either. Hong's distinctive anchors can be seen at the top of this pitch.
Location
This huge corner is hard to miss. It lies just to left of the Steve Caruthers Memorial route.
Protection
pro to #3 camalot but lots of extra in the .75 to #1 camalot sizes. Don't forget to bring two ropes on this one.
This route was actually the site of the longest whip I've taken at the Creek. It was the end of the day, we had done all the .11s, as well as a couple runs on Sacred Cow, but there was still some daylight left. I decided to cool-down on Karin's Corner, since it was "only" a 5.10(+) in the guidebook.
Anyway, I immediately realized that it was going to be harder than expected. At the sustained, blank, ringlocking section about 3/4 the way up the route, I decided to run it out a little to save energy. About 20 feet above my gear, I placed another piece, pulled out a bunch of rope to clip, and then peeled off. It was probably a 50-footer or so. Scared the hell out of me.
For this reason, I am glad to see that grade for the route on here is .11-! I've gotten on it since the whip, and it still feels very hard, sustained, definitely more so than, say, Fatted Calf around the corner.
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