The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Tony Bubb follows the unnamed 5.11+ corner on the ...
Description
A great climb. According to Bloom, this is one of the best unnamed climbs in the creek. Start in the thin corner and power up on fingers to a good jam up and left in a pod of the neighboring crack, perhaps 8 meters. then climb thin hands for about 8 more meters to good stems and opposition moves for rest. Pass another move or two to reach better jams and a widening crack to go to the anchors.
Location
This climb is in a large right facing corner between Fletcher and Whale's Back on the Fin. A crack left of the start at the base but just out of reach comes closer as you go up. Toward the top, a thin crack appears to the right of the corner.
Protection
A few thin cams at the bottom, .5 to .75, then a lot of 1.5-2" gear before a few each of 2.5 and 3".
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