The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Tony Bubb starts up the thin crack and open book s...
Description
It is a nice route that is more fun than it looks and deceptively hard and easy, at the same time. It is steeper than it looks (harder) yet the locks are killer for small fingers (mine) and there are great rests from which to put in gear (easier). The best strategy is to go for it, placing and resting when stances are found.
Location
This open book and flake lies in a right-facing dihedral near the far right end of the S.E. face of Fin wall. A plaque at it's base reads: "Virgin Voyage 5.10++"
Protection
Lots of cams from .33 to .75. Maybe a really small can here or there and a few 1" pieces. Be cautious to place the gear deep, as the edge of the crack/flake is thin and may flex or break on a hard fall.
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