The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is the right-most of the two isolated, Unnamed routes approximately 250 meters east of GoldenEye on the south wall of the Technicolor Buttress.
The route follows a double-crack system inside of a stem-box/chimney/vertical tunnel that gets steeper and more fun as you go. Fairly sustained with a bit of a crux about two-thirds of the way up. An interesting oddity.
Protection
Takes a variety of gear between .5 inches and 5 inches. Will even soundly accept nuts in the right-side crack. A good route for playing around with different gear placements as several options are available at any given spot.
By Clayton Laramie From: Boulder, CO Mar 31, 2008 rating: 5.10-
If I'm on the right route, this was really wierd ending. You have to leave the crack and step left on this ledge to the bolt anchors with slings and rap rings. You might have gear directly right at this point. I climbed straight past the anchor half-way up through the sandy / muddy roof before I realized that I had passed the anchors. Not great but ok.
I don't think you were on the right route Clayton: there was no ledge, the chains (no slings) are inside the chimney, there are no sand/muddy roofs. Great route, fun chimney/stemming all the way up!
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