The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Jeff Giddings laybacking the crux of Golden Eye, a...
Description
GoldenEye is located on the far west end of the south face of the Technicolor Wall. It is easiest to approach this route from the campsite on the valley floor as it is a long trudge across the slope from the nearest, Unnamed routes to the east. Whichever way you get there, the hike will be well worth it: a full 36+ meters of burly Canyonlands crack climbing.
The route starts out with rattly fingers, goes to finger stacks and thin hands, then a fairly long section of decent hands. Catch a rest in the wide-hands section before things go back to thin hands and finger stacks, with a 20 foot crux of steep, rattly-finger, cooler-than-Bond laybacking to the anchors. Arrive (shaking and stirred) at the perfectly positioned anchors.
Protection
Enough .5 through 3 Camalots (i.e. .75" to 3.5") to make you feel safe, emphasis on .5, .75, and #1 Camalots. Keep at least one .5 Camalot or 1.25 TechFriend in reserve for the steeeeep crux.
Long walk, almost didn't make it! But WELL worth the hike. Incredible jamming in the middle leads to a fabulous layback to the chains! If you want a long corner, here's you're climb.
CAUTION! A 70m will not get you back to the ground, tie a knot in the end! Best to bring up your second, or make a intermediate belay at the top of the pillar (20ft off the deck). If you have a short or insecure second: lead it, get lowered to the pillar, make a belay for yourself. Then put your second on belay, and lower them to the ground after they have their fun! Then rap+downclimb yourself.
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado Oct 23, 2008
Excellent route but if the lie back at the top is too burly you can stem to the crack on the right.
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