The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Beautiful corner hand crack! First 30 feet or so vary in quality until you lob yourself over the large hump to a ledge. From there enduro up the corner to the chain anchors.
Protection
Pro: Bottom section uses #3 Camalots, take PLENTY of #2s for the top.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Feb 27, 2006 rating: 5.11-
While the guide suggests that large hands would benefit the ascensionist, I did not find it so, and neither did my 5'5" female partner who has very small hands. Don't let that scare you off of the route.
Climbers with large hands will find the top part of this climb more difficult. I thought it was 5.10c. My partners with smaller hands said 5.10a or b.
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Nov 13, 2006 rating: 5.10d
The upper part of this route is a beauty! Sustained #3 friends, which is perfect hands for me, so I found it a little easier than the 11- rating.
By Clayton Laramie From: Boulder, CO Mar 31, 2008 rating: 5.11-
What a stellar route! This wall doesn't get much traffic. The approach and the base of the wall kinda suck for walking (loose and no real trails) but the routes are good.
Right facing wide hands corner changes to left facing thin hands. Becomes perfect hands for a long way. A 70 might get back down with stretch but we trailed a rope. must do route!!
A 70m doesn't reach, we tried. The route is probably 130' tall.
We replaced the anchor in Sept. '07. One of the original bolts pulled out with not much effort (even still had the price tag on the bolt!), but the other huge weird bolt with homemade aluminum hanger is still there since I didn't have the right gear to try removing it and it's cool to see some original homemade funky stuff now and then (particularly when you don't have to rap from it!).
Be careful about placing cam(s) near the top of the first section, since it's easy for the rope to drag them into the crack when you get on the rest ledge.
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