On the Up and Up 

Hard for small hands. Wear long sleaves or suffer scummies on the forearms. Out of a dozen climbs this weekend, this one scraped me the most.

An incredible line and well worth the slog up to the base (approach trails are intermittent and loose). For those looking for a straight-in wide hands crack, this (imo) is on par with Supercrack.

There is a second pitch to this route. It is about 60 meters from the ground to the second set of anchors. It is pretty clean of loose rock and still a bit sandy, as it is new. It is long, varied, and pretty hard.

Gear would be 2 60 meter ropes, #.75 (1) #1(1-2) #2 (2-3) #3 (a lot) #3.5 (a lot) #4 (a bunch) #5 (2) #6 (1-2) and I used a #4 big bro.

After the first anchors it becomes wide and undulating, with some offwidth and wide crack climbing though somewhat avoidable by being on the face. It then moves past a few ledges to a short squeeze/thrash of armbar, chickenwing, etc (#6 and big bros here)to a good stance in the squeeze at the top where one can slot a good wide hand jam and pull into the upper splitter which was tight fists/wide hands for me (as a point of reference, I have wide hands in the lower splitter.) Continue up splitter and jog left with a few meters of thinner crack, made easier by good feet. Then up through some wider hands crack to a stance in a chimney, finally climbing up dual cracks around suspect (though seemingly stable while climbing on them, though definitely soft)to a stance with a two bolt anchor (Chain and a cold shut.) 5.11

Another great creek splitter. Wider but a good warmm up. Tought to pull the mini stem-box roof. Take plenty of #3 camalots. 3 and 3.5 friends to supplement would also be good. two or 3 #2 camalots are good too. Don't remember taking a new #4. No big bro necessary.

CL