Looking up the route Powders of Persuasion on the ...
Description
This is the huge dihedral on the Bridger Jack butte. Pitch 1: easy 5.9 climbing, maybe 80'. Pitch 2: an 80' offwidth pitch with some sand. The gear is solid, though. A detached pillar provides some great stemming. A 5.10+ slot move to an exciting reach finishes the pitch. Pitch 3: The business. A 180' pumper. The pitch starts off with some 3.5 camalot size and goes to mostly hands (1 camalot and 2.5 friend). Although no single move on the pitch is very hard, it is unrelenting and offers no feet except for the crack. There is no fixed anchor at the top of this pitch, but some small gear like green aliens will do the trick. Pitch 4: Several options are here. We went to the left, which was mostly chossy low angle face climbing typical of any route that tops out on the Bridger Jack.
Rap: One single rope rap off the top to the notch between the Bridger Jack and the King of Pain. A double rope rap about half way down the King of Pain to a solid fixed anchor. BE CAREFUL when pulling your rope from this rap. Many a party has gotten their ropes stuck. Another rap to the ground.
Protection
Some of everything. The third pitch does not have a fixed anchor. Some small stuff, like .3 camalots will do the trick.
Great route. Climbed it on 5/23/04. Lots of more moderate climbing. Sandy and a little loose 2nd pitch in the chimney. Loose top out pitch. Helmet would be good. Fixed pin partway up the enduro corner of the 3rd pitch. Could be broken up into 2 pitches. Watch the rope on 2nd rappel. My gear recommendation is simply my opinion. Conserve gear on the 3rd pitch or you might run out.
Recommended gear for this route:1 x Blue TCU -or- 1/2" piece2 x Yellow TCUs -or- 3/4" pieces1 x Orange TCU -or- 1" piece1 x Purple .5 Junior Camalot1 x Green .75 Junior Camalot1 x #2 Friend1-2 x Red #1 Camalots1 x #2.5 Friend3 x Gold #2 Camalots3 x #3 Friends2-3 x Blue #3 Camalots -or- #3.5 Friends2 x Grey/Black #3.5 Camalot - or- #4 Friends1 x Purple #4 Camalot (maybe 2 if you don't have the previous size)1 x Green #5 Camalot
We brought (camalots) 2x3.5, 2x4, 1x4.5, and 1x5 as well as the smaller stuff. Perhaps overkill for some but I was happy that we did. Enjoyed the route but the sand (and mud in the chimney) definitely took away from it some - I know its the desert but this route is a direct drain for many dirty ledges up high (and we were probably the first after a sizable rainstorm). The last pitch takes some route finding and was not straightforward. Interesting collection of items on top of the butte.
"Interesting collection of items" you say. I take it you found the one we brought up last time (a book of sorts, with a picture?) :) We got a laugh out of it.
You can rap off this route with one 70m rope (three rappels)- short rap to notch, be careful on 2nd rap (just makes it to ledge-reach down to clip in with long sling), Rap to ground.
Bill and I climbed this a year or two ago and thought it was a killer route. I had more fun on this then Rim Shot. The offwidth on pitch 2 was nothing to worry about, I suck at offwidth and thought it was not that bad. There are enough holds and features around to get by without doing many offwidth moves.
Are these people high? All but about 100' of this route blow. Ledgy first pitch, dirty as hell chimney, 100' feet of powdery hand crack (bonus), to a ledgy, loose, traversy garbage pitch. WOW!
I was on route and I do remember some sand and I still thought it was a good route. Maybe you got some of that sand in your pussy? Just joking. It must have just been a great day if the route is really that bad.
The Bridger Jacks
RSS Feed
