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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Cave Route 

5.10d

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Views: 1,011 page views

Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Jan 1, 2001


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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View from the top looking down


Description 

Great thin hands crack route hidden behind a large block leaning against the cliff a hundred yards or so left of Battle of the Bulge. Work your feet as you jam up into the darkness, safe with the knowledge that you will indeed find a bolt anchor up there. Look around, a little creativity can aid in the struggle. Be careful when pulling the rope, or the crack will eat it. Bump this two star route up to three on a hot day.


Protection 

2 0.5 camalots, 3 0.75 camalots, 5 #2 friends, 2 #1 camalots, 1 2.5 friend



Add Photo Photos of Cave Route
Kind of a funky photo of me belaying <br />Scott.  He is desperately stemming <br />rather than securely jamming- I don't <br />know why.

Kind of a funky photo of me belaying
Scott. He i...


I loved this climb, My feet fit in perfectly.  But what do I know, I'm 4 yrs old.

I loved this climb, My feet fit in perfectly. But...

Tom sending in the cave

Tom sending in the cave

Enjoying the shade on Cave Pitch

Enjoying the shade on Cave Pitch

pumpy layback clips!

pumpy layback clips!

our friend justin. pretty sick

our friend justin. pretty sick

Lance nearing the anchor.

Lance nearing the anchor.


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By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 6, 2001

This beauty is great for practicing jamming in smaller sizes. You can stay on your feet, in the crack, the entire way (I have medium hands and feet). This is especially true, since its a little less than vertical. This route is about 2 stars. Since its in a "cave", it provides nice relief from the hot sun.

By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Nov 19, 2001

I have larg hands; #3 Camalots is a great jam. I climbed it with 1 #0.75 Camalots and 8 #1 Camalots. The route in my opinion deserves 3 stars. No jamming for me, lay back and stemming. I could not see the anchors until I was able to stem. Despite being relatively short I was worked by the time I reached the stem rest.

By Jason Wells
Nov 29, 2001

I'd suggest going with the recommended rack at the top. The size most of the way is bad for both .75 and 1 Camalots - #2 Friends are key.

I'd also agree with Mike - jam this sucker. It's great practice for the size and other climbs where laying back is not an option.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2002
rating: 5.10d

It can be done on a single green camalot (.75) and then reds (#1) the rest of the way.

Don't ignore the no-hands stemming rests.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d

Nice climb with an interesting location - perfect for those warm days.

By Rich Servantes III
From: Toyota-rado
Sep 18, 2007

Or rainy days!! Yeah I agree a single .75 and about 5-6 #1s will sew it up.

By Clay Rardon
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 17, 2008

I gave this route 4 stars because it's a great splitter and IT'S IN THE SHADE! It can be sandy and gritty if it hasn't seen traffic since the last storm. Even the most Creek worn hands should take heed.

By Ranchhand
From: UT
Aug 9, 2008

good warm up for those with big hands wishing to get into the 11s at the creek, in my mind its an 11 for gorilla mits, man those feet are tricky to trust, the hands are okay, but one helluvah route, never climbed in a cave before, so i give it 4 stars for its uniqueness