The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Right Arm (10d)- a great climb. Photo by Tony Bubb...
Description
This long varied line haphazardly splits the face to the right of Meat Hooks, a short walk left of where the approach trails meets the Orginal Meat. The 'splitter' crack widens through several pods and offers variation in sizes from the bottom to the top. Keep gear of all sizes at the ready from beginning to end. Akward climbing through the pods sends you straight into difficult thin hands climbing. Use runners to minimize the rope drag on this long and not so straight splitter. Stiff for the grade, but a good line with lots of quality climbing.
Protection
I suggest more than others (Bloom): 1x1.0 2x1.5 3x2.0 7x2.5 4x3.0 3x3.5 2x4.0 and runners / long draws.
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