Abbienormal 

Today I began my training for the FFA of Abbienormal. I woke up at 3 am and ran 26.3 miles in the buff.At 6 am I had a teaspoon of flax seed oil for breakfast.6:01 I began my campusing session by beginning with a 4 minute hang on the bottom then up to the 7th which I did 300 pull ups on then campused back to the bottom to hang again for another 4 minutes and repeated 20 times.By 10 I meditated for 3 hours.Now I had another teaspoon of flax seed oil for lunch and am preparing to run backwards for 13 miles in the buff.For dinner I will have 2 teaspoons of flax seed oil and then end the night by doing 1200 front levers on my front porch in the buff.I think by the spring I will have what it takes to levitate up the route. I am hoping to weigh 92 pounds and have grown 10 inches.

Your going about the training all wrong! You need to pick a fine satchule of humbolts finest, and grab a six pack of tall boys.. Then you will send all your hardest projects with ease!!!

first ascent yet?

not that i've heard.
go get it!

so is it 13 or 12+? the plack says 12+. did somebody make a plack and a rating without first redpointing?

12+ is a guess. Neither of us could link the short tips lieback and the rest of the route would go at 12 from the arete buisness. Although purple tcu's pro this section there are some sweeter spots for your digits. Small fingered climbers should have a look since this bit is only about 7' giving way to bigger slots for your check to the arete. Did you get on the route? What do you think it goes at?

Cool, someone has been noticing this route.
Abbienormal has not been redpointed to my knowledge, but I am about 6.2 hours away from knowing. i have been stuck inside Clear Creek until the book is done.

The three of us agreed that its piss hard, though. harder than 5.11 but probably easier than 5.13+. My post of the route explained that i set the anchors after aiding it, then we played around on TR. i figured that once the crack gets a few ascents, the tips will naturally open up a bit. First go of it, i could not even get into the cuticles. just a few ascents will wear the inside of a tips crack, even by a few millimeters, which makes a big difference; whereas a few millimeters in a hand crack goes unnoticed until after a thousand or so ascents (ref Incredible Hand Crack...). Also, after a few falls or hang dogs on small TCUs, it will open up some of the crack, trust me. this is the reasoning for the grade discrepancy. I would put money on that whoever sends it first will be someone with tiny fingers, like Gnade or Rodden. which means the tentative 13 rating will probably be downgraded. but maybe not, since grades there are dependent on lead, placing gear.

who knows. does it even matter? its all hard above 5.11 in IC, anyway.

i think its a pretty route, though. and very unique. i would love to see someone climb it. For me, i know that i would need to be alot stronger, hammer my tips flatter, and eat more flax seed oil.
in the buff, of course.

oh yeah, if ya look in your Bloom guide, pg 112, Abbienormal is the shaded RF corner left of #53 (similar pic on pg 111).
-Darren

I would like to re-name this route "Red Neck Rock Warrior". I did it on 12/7/06 and I think it was the FFA. I didn't know it was a memorial for Kim's dog or else I may have thought twice, but I did make a new plaque after I did it. I don't mean to disrespect Abbie or anything -I'm sure she was a great dog. I would like to name this route after Alf Randell who just taught me a lot about red neck qualities.

Anyhow- it's a good hard route and I greatly appreciate that Darren and Kim recognized it and put in the anchors.