The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is the left-most route published on the Fin Wall.It is charicterized by it's twin cracks, the left one being 2 meters of blocks and choss to a good hand crack and the right one being an obvious right-facing offset that goes from thing hands to tight tips before opening to perfect hands up higher.Make use of the two cracks, starting right, then moving left quickly to the top of the left crack (it reaches the arete to the left) and then using the right crack to go up and on to a set of anchors.For a challenge, us the left crack only to it's end (5.10c) or the right crack only (5.11d)
Protection
Thin hands to wide hands, several each. Extra in the 3" range.
Easier start is up the left crack but it's loose blocks. Right crack start is on the 11+ route. Left crack is fun hands. Gear is a little strange in parts due to broken rock. Take the right hand crack right at the end or you will miss the anchors.
Right 11+ variation is sick and hard. Keeps narrowing down to hard blue alien size tips before you can get a tight hand in there. Don't use the left crack at all if you go this way, no rests. This variation is the reason to come down here. 4 stars for sure!!! Incredible.
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