The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This climb is way left on the Optimator wall and is one of it's 'full length' pitches. You need a 70M rope to lower off.Walk left to the near end of the wall, where you will see the awazing route "Jews On Crack", a huge right-facing corner that hooks right at the top for a 20' roof traverse with a wide-hands undercling jam-fest.Just back right of this there is a left facing corner that goes forever with a variable width crack to a fixed anchor. This climb Sardikar lives in the shadow of its more stunning neighbors (Soul Fire is the cool thin-hands to hands spillter just to the right), but is no less a great route. The variety fo the crack makes it accessable to those who forgot to bring 12 #3's to the cliff.
The start of this one had sort of an 'Eldo' feel to it: intermittent pro, tricky stemming, that sort of thing. I rather liked it.
By Mike From: Phoenix Nov 5, 2009 rating: 5.10+ PG13
I thought this climb was a bit scary. It isn't your typical IC splitter. Also there is a loose flake that you need to yard on/step on that was a bit heady. Fun though for sure.
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