The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Nice route and beautifull landscape. Thanks to Gab...
Description
This climb on the left side of Way Rambo Wall. It is best found by locating the 'wide' climb Way Nutter, which is just left of a huge gap in a right-facing diherdal, and then going one line further left past an arete. This line is characterized by its unusually large number of face holds for both hands and feet along the upper half of the route in lighter-colored rock. Climb up on good jams and good gear with decent face holds until near the top, when the jamming and face holds suddenly both become awkward and insecure. Put in those 1" cams and then 1.5's to get up to the anchors. Convincing yourself to let go with one hand and pull up slack to clip the anchors might be the crux of the route.
Protection
2 each, 1.5"-3.5" in 1/2 inch increments. An extra 3" is recommeneded by the Indian Creek guide book but seemed unnecessary.
Quality route. As of 10/31/09 the anchors are now drilled pins and they look fine, though the slings will eventually need replacement. To avoid walking and backcleaning, 2 #3.5 (or new 4) Camalots and 3 #3 Camalots nicely protect the bottom 50' of fistness. Old #4 camalots are too big.
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