The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Tony on The Fuzz, lower section before it gets ste...
Description
This route is the obvious left-facing corner up and right of approach trail's intersection with the rock. This is 50M right of Way Rambo and just right and facing the popular warm-up, Rochambeau.Climbinto the awkward slot and then up and right to enter the corner. Climb up good jamming at a low angle with some nice ledges for rest here and there. Use these ledges for a complete de-pump to avoid enduro fatigue at the finish. Continue climbing, placing widening gear on the upper section, with good undercling hand-jams. Finish on 3" cams under the right-leaning crack/flake to grab the finishing holds and get into the finger slots to clip the anchors from. Great finish to a great climb. A 70M rope is required to lower off or TR this line.
Protection
The bottom is an awkward slot that is not well protected. A 1.5" cam in a 'soft' horizontal protects a move 4 meters up that enters the main corner system and gets you to good pro. Get a spot.After that, the route is mostly 1.5"-3", heavy on the 3" pro, incluing at the pumpy crux up top. Use a 70M rope to get all the way down.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Feb 8, 2006
Great route. Save some #2 camalots for the steep section at the top! Better yet, save some strength for the final move!
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT Mar 24, 2007 rating: 5.10
Acording to the bloom book it is 130ft....well a 70m got me down with about 2 feet to spare.....also this is MUCH better then the sandy and loose choss pile to the left raushampooooo
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado May 1, 2007
Excellent warm-up. My 70m was a little short when I didn't clean the gear on the way down. Straight line to the anchors a 70 is fine.
Not even close to being R rated, not even PG, completely safe climb and soft for the grade. I got down with a 60 meter with rope on the ground, not sure what people are saying about 70m ropes not making it down.
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az Apr 13, 2009 rating: 5.10
Not quite, dude. We had a 70m and it was exactly enough. Maybe you were on a different route.
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