A photo of VM taken by Red Wolfe. I am about 4/5s ...
Description
Very Fun!: MANY PERFECT HAND JAMS (for very very very large hands, i.e., closer to fists than cupped hands). But: The looseness of the hands forced me to focus on my feet which, if you are a hack like myself, is always helpful. Could might possibly be great fist jamming for the very slight-handed.
Apparently this is climbed relatively rarely for such a long, moderate, and varied route in a relatively popular area (Its the second route left of Incredible Spam Crack, in a left facing crack system).
CAVEAT: It seems that the BLM's so-called 'maintenance engineers' have been goldbricking during their nightly vacuuming rounds as there is a little bit of loose rock and sand near the middle of this route. Could someone direct me to the Complaints Department? Thank you. . . .
Protection
Typical El Cap Free Rack: Approximately 25 (gulp!) pieces (Camalot Sizes):.5 through 4, heavy on the 2's and 3's. Several runners and quickdraws, too. (Bloom's list is dead on.) Probably gonna want a gear sling for all of that, champ.
If this route were closer to the road it would get a ton of traffic...it's sweet. The crux is at the bottom...in my opinion. After that, the hand jamming is beautiful. The 25 pieces of pro is a bit hefty...I used around 14 and by no means consider myself a bold leader that loves run-out. Just my $.02.
Tenderloins Wall
RSS Feed
