The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
From know Pistol Whipped routes, walk 8 minutes right. Stop 20 ft left of the one large lonely tree. Climb 2 thin cracks. Start with left thin crack on slabby face, transfer to right thin crack. After left crack ends, right Crack ocasionally widens, providing some hand jams and rest. The Anchor is just left of the crack, where it goes chimney wide.This climb is unusual for Indian Creek, requiring good feet placement outside the cracks.
The climb was put up in memory of Dee Johnson, a Devil's Lake,WI lady who climbed into her 70s and inspired many with her broad, wholesome smile and her flowing, effortless movement on the rock.
Protection
(1) #0.5, (2 each) #0.75,#1,#2, (1) #3 Friends, set of sm. & med. nuts, draws and longs.Anchor: 2 12-mm Bolts Anchor with rap ring. It would be nice to add a chain on the top bolt to replace the 11mm rope.
By tooTALLtim From: Boulder, CO Nov 13, 2009 rating: 5.10+
Thanks for equipping this fine route!
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Nov 19, 2009 rating: 5.10+
Steep and quality route that offers something different than most other climbs at the Creek- technical footwork. The rock is a bit soft over here, so heads up.
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