The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A worthwhile route on the far far right side of Pistol Whipped. Located just to the left, around the corner from Sig Sauer. Climbs the left facing handcrack up the initial pillar to its top. The crack then heads directly onto the face, staying hands and fists to start, with a crux OW finish. When I did this a few years ago it was quite sandy, but still fun to do despite the added difficulty. In fact many of the routes at Pistol Whipped and the Creek in general seem to get pretty sandy after the monsoon runoffs. The rating reported is my opinion - not consensus, as it isn't graded in any guide I've seen. Might feel like 11- if particularly dirty, but probably just 10+, possibly less? You tell me. Anchor bolts are at a pod after the OW section, but before the crack kicks past vertical,less than 100' up, but may be more than 80'.
Protection
Gear from approximately 1.5 to 4 inches. At least doubles from 2.5 to 4 inches, possibly more, particularly at hand to fist sizes.
By tooTALLtim From: Boulder, CO Nov 13, 2009 rating: 5.10+
This is one of those fun routes of all sizes.
It quickly goes to big hands at the start, step behind the pillar and stem up with a #.75 (BD) to a tricky transition from the pillar (the top wobbles) to the crack (a bit sandy/loose here, watch out).
The OW section takes BD #4, #5, and even #6. If one were to sew this section up, take two #4's, two #5's, and one #6. With some trading and walking, one set is totally fine.
Doubles from #.75 to #3, and then OW pieces. And maybe a finger size piece for the top if you're a wimp like me.
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