This route is in the next corner left of "The Naked and the Dead." Look for a left leaning pillar with a large chockstone near the bottom. Clearly seen in the Donnelly Canyon photo.
This is a short and super-fun route - at least until you get to the last 15 feet.
Start by squeezing into the chimney below the chockstone, then pulling up and over it. The fun commences with good gear and great stemming - one hand in the (finger) crack, the other on the leaning pillar. The pillar leans away from the wall, so the stemming gets more exciting as you climb.Once you reach the top of the pillar the real work begins. Your two smallest pieces will fit in the bulge - but, if you're not solid while liebacking on sloping tips, save one larger green Alien size for the short ramp over the bulge.The anchors are just large machine-bolts sticking out of the rock, with webbing slung over them. Not too reassuring. The current rings are aluminum rap rings - don't toprope through them (duh)!
Protection
One hand-sized piece for the chockstone, then at least two each of blue, green, yellow and red Alien sized pieces. A #3 - #4 (old style) Camalot will fit nicely in the pod below the crux.
Add PhotoPhotos of Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked&the Dead)
BETA PHOTO
Look, Ma . . . !
Danielle disdaining the stem in favor of the lieba...
gracefully surmounting the chockstone
Add CommentComments on Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked&the Dead)
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By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Oct 19, 2005 rating: 5.10b
A nice change from the typical IC splitter.Secure, well protected chimneying leads to an intriguing step across into the layback crack. A couple layback moves deliver you into a nice wide-hands crack (rest) where you can psych up for the tips layback to the chains. A green alien in the small pod right at the lip protects the crux well.
Donnelly Canyon
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