Will-Mento 

FA:  Unknown Party, 5/2004 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 110 feet Views: 360 page views Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 18, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>> Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page. The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>> Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). Continue past this perhaps another 100 meters to a MASSIVE left facing corner with a off-hands to off-fists crack in it. It is characterized by three small roofs in the corner and a slate with the name, grade, & date placed in a horizontal, 2 meters up the climb.Go up the runout start (5.8+ stemming) to reach 20M of perfect hand-jams, then continue up the widening crack past 3 rooves, each bumping the leader to the left slightly.

This is a good route, but needs a little more traffic to be great. The rock is solid, the line good, the moves great, adn the anchors trustworthy, However, under the first two roofs, there is some accumulation of dust that is not yet well cleaned off. My partner did some hand-brushing, but the route needs more, and we had no cloth or brush to dust it off with.

Protection 

A run of cams from 2.5+ inches to 3.5 inches- heavy on the 3" and 3.5"