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Bioturbation Wall
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Alienation 
Bioturbation 
Chest Full of Kind 
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Alienation 

5.10

   

FA: Yes
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 468 page views

Submitted By: Alan Searcy on Apr 10, 2005


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Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

from the base, handcrack visible up high


Description 

Where you park for Way Rambo Wall is essentially the same jumping off point for this wall. 300 yards prior to hitting the gate at the end of the road, head uphill past some cool looking rock mushrooms to the base of the wall. Wander right until you run into some plaques at the base of several climbs. Alienation is located in a right-facing dihedral with a blocky start. A 7'x7' square boulder resides at the base. From the base you can see the wide crack start 25' up (4.5") and the perfect handcrack finish about 80' up. The wide bit is very positive with decent feet and narrows down the higher you go. Awesome fist jams take you to the base of the handcrack. Perfect hands to the camoflauged two bolt anchor. It's a worthy moderate route.


Protection 

Green, Yellow & Red Aliens. Camalots; 2 each(.75)&(#1), 3 each(#2) 1 each: (#3), (#3.5),(#4),(#4.5)



Photos of Alienation Slideshow Add Photo
The start is blocky and protects with green aliens or a .75.  More aliens take you into the crack where bigger is better.  I walked a 4.5 and a 3.5 with no real stress involved.

The start is blocky and protects with green aliens...


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By Ryan Deppen
Apr 18, 2005

Great climb, 5.9 doesn't seem to be on par w/ other grades on this wall. Little bit of everything to be encountered. Seems like it could have gone on. Single 70 meter rope works perfect on this route.