The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Beautiful climb. If facing the buttress, it is two routes right of Nagasaki and left of Beauty and the Beast. If you don't know where Nagasaki is, it is approximately a 1 minute hike right of Skid Row. Skid Row is a dramatic finger crack with a roof that you have to layback 80% of the route. Don't be misled by heading right and dropping your gear at the first right facing corner twin crack system. Go 20 more meters to the next right facing corner with a twin crack system. Shameless beta follows in case you don't want it: layback the left side crack system at the top rather than working the funky right crack.
70 M rope absolutely suggested.
Protection
Bloom's guide calls for 2 0.75, 4 1.0, 4 1.5, 2 2.0, 3 2.5 Friends. We placed 18 pieces. I would go a little heavier on the thin hands sizes (2.0 Friends or red Camalots) probably 4-5 of them.
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