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Double Trouble 

5.11-

   
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FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 1,065 page views

Submitted By: Lon Black on Apr 4, 2005


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Rope gun: Michelle Hale
Photographer:Lon Black



Description 

Beautiful climb. If facing the buttress, it is two routes right of Nagasaki and left of Beauty and the Beast. If you don't know where Nagasaki is, it is approximately a 1 minute hike right of Skid Row. Skid Row is a dramatic finger crack with a roof that you have to layback 80% of the route. Don't be misled by heading right and dropping your gear at the first right facing corner twin crack system. Go 20 more meters to the next right facing corner with a twin crack system. Shameless beta follows in case you don't want it: layback the left side crack system at the top rather than working the funky right crack.

70 M rope absolutely suggested.




Protection 

Bloom's guide calls for 2 0.75, 4 1.0, 4 1.5, 2 2.0, 3 2.5 Friends. We placed 18 pieces. I would go a little heavier on the thin hands sizes (2.0 Friends or red Camalots) probably 4-5 of them.



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By chris Kalous
Nov 8, 2006

Cleaned up and beefed up the anchor on this one recently. Thanks to the Climbing Magazine's ARI!

Chris Kalous