The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
On the north wall. Hike right around the corner to where a few routes are clustered next to each other. This is probably the best warm up for most people. The crack is offset, splitter and leans left for the first 2/3 of the route. Primarily hands and thin hands takes you to the anchor.
Protection
A 2" piece and several red and gold camalots. #3 friends also work on the middle portion of the crack.
Nice route, great if you want to break in to the #1 camalot size, this section is short and steep. Can toprope the 10d to the left which is really fun, lots of good fingerlocks and smaller sizes for those wanting to work the tighter stuff. Morning shade/ mid afternoon shade.
This was a tough love crack for me. I have big hands and found it difficult and challenging. The route demands to spit you out and make you work for the jams. I agree with the previous post and this is a great route if you want to work the #1 camelot size, just dont expect it to be easy if you have big paws
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